Monthly Archives: August 2016

The Different Ways Hamsters Communicate

Looking down at your hamster in their cage it often difficult to work out what they might be saying.

Have you ever wondered what they might thinking or if they are things to say something to you?

As they don’t speak our language it’s pretty difficult to decider if they are trying to say something.

But there are clues we can look for to work out what they are trying to say to us. All animals communicate in some way.

It’s up to us to find out what it is they actually trying to say and whether we can communicate back to them as well.

Vocalizations and Body language

Hamsters use vocalizations and body language to communicate.

This is just like we do and they use these to express themselves.

Their emotions, fears, anxieties, and what they want.

They have learnt and evolved their own different way of getting what they want to say across to other.

Audible and Non-Audible

The ways hamsters communicate can be split into two camps. Either audible or non audible.

Audible in the sense that they can make sounds that can be heard by the human ear such as squeaking, squealing or using their teeth to click.

The non Audible which make up a lot of the hamsters communication techniques which can consist of anything from ultrasonic sound which is out of range for humans to leaving scent trails to stances they make.

It all serves to get across the point they want to make.

Squeaking or Squealing

Their main mentor of vocalization is by squeaking or squealing.

Depending on the situation they can either be squeaking in pain or distress or in delight and excitement.

When this happens it’s up to us to decider which way it is.

This normally indicates some sort of distress and the pitch of the squeak or squeal will give you a feeling of how the urgency of it.

They are very similar to us really in this effect.

For instance if you happen to crush a part of their body by accident the squeal will be very loud.

However they also use squeaking If they are hungry the squeak will be relatively soft.

Speaking in excitement and delight will usually involve the possibility of food or being let out for exercise.

This is also a good sign that things are good in your relationship with them as they know you and trust you as well.

It’s a sign that they getting more familiar with you as well

Chewing on bars

If you seen your hamster chewing on their bars or gnawing at plastic then this is a sigh that they are bored and un-stimulated.

It means that they are in need of some urgent attention.

Maybe take them out of their cage and give them some exercise or put some more food out for them.

If you see your hamster moving in a crouched manner walking slower than they do usually.

This is a sign that they are in pain and need some veterinary attention.

When they are unwell they don’t necessarily let you know about it and keep quiet about being sick.

So you need to watch out for signs like this.


If you see your hamster yawning then unlike humans this isn’t a sign that your hamster is tired.

Instead it is actually a signal that they are feeling relaxed and stretching out their body.

They will be feeling happy and calm at this moment.

If they are stretching the rest of their body at this time then this is added proof that they are relaxed.

If you find them grooming themselves then this is also not just them cleaning and looking after themselves.

It is also a sign that they are feeling relaxed and pretty happy about things.

A good sign that all is well with your hamster.

Pressing their body against objects

If you see your hamster pressing their body against objects then this is a sign that they are marking their territory.

This is an act carried out by many animals to keep others away from it.

They do this using their scent glands which are located in the region of their hips.

The scent is pretty powerful to other animals and can be a marker of status for submissive and dominant hamsters.

Roborovski and Syrian hamsters have scent glands that are paired on each hip.

Russian Campbell dwarf, Winter white and Chinese hamsters have six pairs of scent glands.

These are found on their genitals, belly and on their ears.

Chattering teeth

If they are chattering their teeth this is a sign that they want you to back off.

Other rodents such as guinea pugs use this method to tell their peers to go away.

It is pretty effective when used on other hamsters and will make any opponent wary.

If you one day you find the ears of your hamster are pointing backwards then this can also be saying that they are feeling lethargic as well.

They may also have their eyes half shut as well so it would be worth leaving them alone in this instance.


Ever heard a hamster clicking?

These are caused by their front teeth rubbing together and is called bruxing.

Unlike the chattering of teeth when faced with another foe, if he are doing this when they alone then this actually them feeling content and relaxed.

They are just clicking their two incisors together in the upper and lower jaw.

Grooming and body washing

If you see a hamster grooming and body washing for a long time then they are feeling uncomfortable in after being given put in an unfamiliar area.

It is a nervousness which has translated into an expression of cleaning.

Some humans do it too!

What they are actually doing is to scent their paws and other areas of their body in preparation to mark their new territory.

Standing up tall

Even seen a hamster standing up tall on their hind legs with their ears standing in end and nose pointing upwards?

Then what this is showing is that something has sparked their attention and they are curious to find out what it is.

Mating Communication

When they are mating they will use auditory communication to let the other sex know what is happening.

These will be at different times depending on where in the cycle they are.

Male hamsters for instance will squeak when they have found a female hamster.

Female hamsters on the other hand will do so if they are in entrusted, are lactating, on shorter days, or if there isn’t a male in the vicinity.

Their breath

Did you know that hamsters can also recognize each other by their breathe?

This is where their powerful sense of smell comes into play.

When they live on packs this is an especially useful skill for them to use.

how to handle an apprehensive hamster

How To Handle An Apprehensive Hamster

Picking up a hamster is not the easiest thing to do at the best of times.

As animals they do not take kindly to being touched if they are  not familiar with you.

Especially if you haven’t built a relationship where they feel that they can trust you to pick them up.

There are many reasons why you would want to pick a hamster up.

  • To start building relationship with them.
  • To move them out of the cage.
  • To show of them off to a friend maybe?

Biting, not good!

Having a hamster in your hands or scurrying up onto your shoulder when you are watching tv is a nice thing to happen as a hamster owner.

But having them bite you puts an end to that and can quickly build distrust between you and the hamster.

This is especially the case, if it ends up drawing blood and wounding you.

So how do you handle a hamster without them struggling

Especially if they are within your grasp and biting you or even suddenly lashing out at you?

Having a new hamster means giving them time to adjust to their new surroundings and especially their new owner.

They don’t know you either to smell or to listen to.

They will be scared and apprehensive.

Any attempt to pick them up will be met with them scurrying to the nearest safe corner of the cage or their hidey home.

So it will take time to build trust with your hammy.

But some patience on your behalf will pay dividends as well as time invested spending with them.

The more they hear your voice, smell your scent and most importantly receive food from you will make them realize that you are someone that they can trust.

Putting food in their cage and letting them eat off your hand is an important way that you can build up trust between you and your hammy.

They get to smell your skin and see that you are a friendly soul that gives them what they are looking for.

If you can do this on a daily basis as often as you can, the quicker you can start to build up that trust.

The more you can touch them gently in this manner, the more trust that have in you.

Then when you start to attempt to pick them up it becomes easier to do so.

Because they know you better, they know who is picking them up .

As much as they let you, gently stoke the with with your finger very lightly to help them get to know your touch as well.

This is very helpful for them and helps you get to know what kind of touch that they will tolerate from you as well.

To attempt to pick them up start by cupping your hand palm side on and then scoop the up underneath their body.

This method means that your hamster will feel more secure and supported underneath their body.


So here goes…

Move gently and slowly being careful not to startle them.

Don’t try and be forceful.

If they don’t want to move into your hand and evade it.

Don’t chase them.

Try again later.

Don’t try and grab your hammy from the top or pinch their fur so as to hurt them.

They will let you know about it by squealing out in pain.

Return to the scooping method when you feel the time is right and in between keep feeding food to them out of your hand.

Once you are able to scoop them up, clasp them gently giving them room to breathe and move around in your hands.

You may not have much time with them before they try and make an escape.

So let them move around and then return them to the cage.

Try and do this on a daily basis and prolong the time you have with them increasing it daily.


If you do this gradually and patiently you’ll see the benefits of doing this overtime.

Your hamster will want to jump into your hand and enjoy spending time with you.

This is because they know you are going to treat them well and not do them any harm.

They will bite you if they feel threatened in any way and do this in defense.

But hopefully this will not happen because they will have learnt to trust you.

The only other time when then may bite you is if the accidentally mistake your finger for food.

But this only tends to happen at the start of a relationship when a hamster does not know your scent.

Especially if they think your fingers are food.

winter white dwarf hamsters together

How To Integrate Two Winter White Dwarf Hamsters Together

Winter white dwarf hamsters are a unique type of hamster famed for the coat of hair that they have.

Their scientific name is Phodopus sungorus sungorus and they one of the lesser common pet hamsters that are available today.

They are also called Djungarian hamsters, Siberian hamsters, or Siberian dwarf hamsters.

A bit of background about them

They are well loved amongst owners around the world however and retain their popularity.

Compared to other types of hamster such as Syrians, Winter white dwarf hamsters are normally more social creatures.

They are known for being able to get along with other Winter whites and even other types of hamster from time to time.

However this unfortunately is not an automatic given.

They still need supervising and even in a cage of limited size, fights can still break out between them.

They still remain quite guarded creatures and value their own space and territory.

So when another invades this space there are times when it does not go down too well.

This is especially the case with those types of winter white dwarf hamster who are unfamiliar with one another.

When they are not aware of each others scent this can cause them to become edgy and very wary of the other.

Unfortunately it can also cause them to injure each other due to being threatened by one another.

But it can be done and introducing two with terms white dwarf hamsters is possible.

However it requires patience and perseverance from the owner to ensure that it is done right and a willingness to back down if it is not going to plan.

This is the same for bringing any two species of animal together.

Sometimes it goes well, sometimes it doesn’t.

So if this is something you are looking to do then here are some recommended action steps that you can put into place to help you along this path.

Have patience

Remember to take things slowly and don’t force the issue with them if they are not ready to share a living space.

It can be something you come back to at a later date if so.

If you have one winter white dwarf hamster and what to get another then don’t just go and get one and put it straight into your pets cage.

Unfortunately this is not a good plan and will cause problems from the start. Instead a more considered approach is required to make this a success.

Get a new cage for your new Winter white dwarf hamster

When you get the new winter white dwarf hamster, purchase a new cage to go with it.

Treat them as you would two separate pets buying all the accessories they need for their new cage.

Make their new living space as comfortable for them as possible.

When looking for a new cage it is important to find one which is the right size.

Very often cages that are available for sale in pet stores are just too small.

So if you are in any doubt as to what size cage to get, always go for the largest size even if it is the most expensive.

It will save you money in the long term as your hamster will grow and outgrow their cage.

So if you start with a small cage very soon you may find that you have to upgrade it.

It’s important that you hamster has a place to run around and where it feels comfortable.

If it doesn’t feel comfortable it will start to show in their behavior and will be detrimental to its health in the long term.

The larger the cage, the better

Cages that were built for chinchillas, mice and rats that are larger than hamsters are actually pretty good for hamsters.

They are usually much bigger than the average hamster cage.

Just make sure that the cage bars are close together so they can’t squeeze through them.

Hamsters have the ability to squeeze through small gaps.

If you have a mature hamster and your cage has gaps that are more than half an inch wide then your hamster will fancy their chances of getting through that gap.

If they can fit their skull through the gap then the rest of their body will follow.

If you have a young hamster it will be the size of gap that your hamster will be able to get through will be lessened.

Most hamster cages have gaps between the bars of no more than a centimeter wide.

So do be careful what size gap between your bars there is.

Make sure you get one of the same sex

It’s also important to remember to get a winter white dwarf hamster that is the same sex as the one you have.

Putting a male and female together will not end well and you will end up with more winter white dwarf hamsters than you originally envisioned.

Good pet stores will already know what sex each hamster they have so will be able to guide you in this.

It is not recommend you get one from a breeder unless you are certain they know what they are doing or you know how to sex a hamster yourself.

Animal sanctuary’s are better at doing this in this respect as they often have experts on their teams who are experienced in dealing with sexing animals.

However it is a good skill to be able to know how to do this yourself so you can be 100% sure yourself.

Place the cages the the same room as each other.

However don’t be tempted to put them right next to each other to start off with.

At this point we want each winter white dwarf to know that there is another in the vicinity.

They can know this by smelling a different scent in the room.

They can also hear each other.

Leave the cages where they are for a few days and let them become accustomed to the new scents and sounds they are hearing smelling.  

Then move them closer to each other.

A meter apart will suffice to allow the scent and sound that each makes to become stronger.

After a few days at this distance, place the cages close together almost touching but not quite.

This will be sufficient to allow them to start interacting with each other.

To know that there is another hamster close by that they can start communicating with but isn’t in their territory.

It is interesting now to see how they react.

Do they run and hide from each other or are they not afraid to go and suss each other out?

It is how they react in these situations which will determine whether it’s a good idea to go towards the next steps of putting them together.

Introducing them together then comes next.

The way to do this is not to throw them together in the same cage.

It is better to introduce them in a neutral area which hasn’t been marked by either of them as their territory.

Something like a large box that doesn’t allow them to escape will be ideal.

If you can find one about a meter in length this would be ideal and make sure it hasn’t been soiled in anyway to make it unusable.

Grocery stores or stores that sell things like large screen TVs are ideal for this.

Leave the large box open at the top and put shavings and tissue for them to use to create a nest.


They also need water and food.

So a water bottle each which is attached to the side of the box and two bowls of food to keep them fed is needed to ensure that they don’t go hungry.

Have a hidey home for them each to use.

These can be purchased from any good pet store or you can use a small box that they can crawl into and hide if necessary.

Even when they are with their own kind they need their own place to help and call their own.

Also place things that they can chew on like chew toys around the box.

Get ready to place the hamsters in the box

Then when the box is ready, place the hamsters into the box carefully.

Don’t leave the box as they need to be observed for the whole time they are together.

Supervision is important as if they break out into scuffles you can intervene so that neither is injured.

If they seem like they are getting along or at least not harming each other then this is good.

They may be ignoring each other and this is good too.

If all is going well let them spend about 20 minutes together before separating them and putting them back in their separate cages.

Keep repeating the procedure

Repeat the same thing the next day and again, observe their encounter and closely supervise them.

If all is well with them then continue this for about four or five occasions until you feel they are ready to live together in the same cage.

However if they break out into scuffles at any point pull them apart and put them back into their separate cages.

Try again the next day and see if they fight again.

If they don’t then continue as above.

If they do fight then separate them.

You may want to try again for a third time but if you feel that things aren’t good between them the don’t force the issue.

It maybe worth admitting defeat on the issue rather than risking their health trying to force them together.

Get ready for a bigger cage.

If all is good after about a week, then prepare a cage that is at least a meter in length ready for them.

Make sure it has fresh new bedding that has been unmarked by either of them.

Set it all looks up the same way you prepared the box and place the two winter white dwarfs in the cage.

Continue to supervise

Continue to supervise them and have the cage close by so you can monitor their relationship.

If there is any sign that they aren’t getting along then it may be worth separating them again.

Definitely do this if they start fighting as the last thing you want is them drawing blood.

If all goes well you should have two winter white dwarf hamsters that are now sharing the same cage.

If you don’t then it there are three options;

1. Persevere with trying to put them together and separating them.
2. Keep them in separate cages.
3. Find a good new home for one of them if you can’t have two in separate cages.

hamster wants you to know

10 Things Your Hamster Wants You To Know

Ok, this wasn’t really written by a hamster, nor did they whisper in my ear and tell me but its written from their point of view. Our aim is that they are treated as well as can be, and we have a pretty good idea of how they like to be treated as pets so hopefully it is helpful in this aspect.

So here we go, here are 10 things your hamster wants you to know.

1. I need to chew

Did you know that I am a rodent?

Like other rodents my teeth are always growing and this can cause me problems.

It’s one of the things I have to live with and it means I have to keep them in check.

Unfortunately, if I let them grow they can cause me a lot of pain.

I keep them in check by chewing.

This is why I always need things to chew on like hard items such as blocks of wood and I’ll even chew in those chew toys you can get as well.

If you don’t provide them for me unfortunately I’ll need to chew on things you don’t want me to chew on.

Items like the sides of the cage you put me in will do the job.

You may not like this but sorry it’s what I need to do.

I have been known to chew through plastic and have a go at metal bars if necessary so do help me out and get some good things that you would like me to chew on.

2. I love to run

Did you know that in the wild I can run up to nine miles a night?

I love to run and exercise is an important part of my lifestyle.

I need to be able to run so if I am to be your pet I need help in making this happen.

You can get me an exercise wheel but make sure it’s the biggest one you can find as small exercise wheels are painful for my back.

You can also get me a hamster ball which is also helpful if a little confusing for me.

Make sure you clean it out regularly and get a good sized one that I can see out of clearly.

However my most favorite exercise is when you let me out in a room to run.

You can set this up so that I only stay in that room and don’t escape.You can even set up a play pen for me.

Be imaginative as long as I can run regularly otherwise my quality of life deteriorates massively unfortunately.

With the running I love to explore.

I am naturally curious and live to find new places, check things out and find new places to go.

Set me up in different rooms, set me good boundaries and let me roam.

Use an exercise ball for this if you must but the best way is to set up a room for me to run around with.

I’ll enjoy this a lot more.

Just make sure there isn’t any other pets in the room otherwise I’ll get a good fright.

Stay close by and supervise this time to make sure I’m alright.

I get startled easily and  so make sure I’m OK and free if danger.

3. I store food in my cheeks

There maybe times when you see with my cheeks puffed out.

This is perfectly normal.

I am not holding my breath, eating too much or haven’t caught some kind of disease, I am storing food in my cheeks.

I actually have cheek pouches.

It’s the way I keep food safe in the wild from others who would want to get it like rats or mice.

Mother hamsters have even been known to carry their young pups in their cheeks you keep them safe.

Once I find a safe place for my food I will put it down there but until then if I feel my food is at risk it will stay in my cheek pouches.

4. Keep my house clean

Keeping my house clean is pretty important to me.

Just as it probably is to you.

There is only so much I can do but living in a confined space means that there is going be some cleaning up to do.

I don’t use the toilet like you guys do so I tend to just go wherever so my bedding needs cleaning out regularly.

Every week is great.

Also spot cleaning daily really helps to keep things from getting out of hand.

I don’t mind you taking me out to give it a thorough clean once a week so it keeps the cage smelling fresh.

Don’t use poisonous bleaches without properly rinsing them out.

They are poisonous to me.

I much prefer animal friendly disinfectant cleaner which you can buy from good pet stores.

5. I don’t live for a long time

If you’re wandering how long you have with me then I’m afraid it’s usually only a few years unfortunately.

This is why it’s important that you help me make the most of every moment I have on this earth.

I’d really value it if you helped make it the best and most fun you can.

So lots of eating, drinking, chewing and running please and no scary stuff please.

6. I don’t like being startled

Taking about being startled.

This is something I really don’t like.

I don’t have the best eyesight so I can’t see you like you can see me so when  I look up at you I only see a colored blob.

I only see well up to the end of my nose so use my other senses such as my smell and touch to get around.

I am also naturally wary of anything.

This is because I am a prey animal and so in the wild my ancestors were always looking out for predators who were going to eat them.

Because of this I get scared really easily and so any sudden sounds or noises send me running for cover.

Do take care around me as I much prefer softer sounds.

As I startle very easily I also need a good place to hide and retreat from the outside world.

In the wild I would have a burrow for this and it would protect me from scary things out in the wild.

So a hidey home which you can purchase from a pet store would be a good alternative.

Otherwise a small box which I can put bedding and tissue paper where I can retreat to will suit me fine.

As I quite like being on my own it is a good place to retreat to when there is a lot of noise as it helps keep me calm

7. I sleep a lot during the day

You may also notice that I’m not around during the day very much.

That’s because I do like to sleep during the day.

So if you’re at work or school this is a good time for me to crawl into my nest and curl up and and go to sleep.

I do prefer to sleep during these times and l usually wake up between  6pm-8pm to run around.

However I do wake up easily so if you are around and whisper nicely into my cage I do wake up and can play for a bit if you are around.

I need some help from you to get used to this if you want to make it a regular thing though.

I can always go back to sleep afterwards.

Having slept through most of the day I usually stay awake through the night

This means you may not want to keep me near where you are sleeping.

I’ll probably keep you awake with my running and exercise wheel squeaking away which you may not enjoy very much.

8. I love eating

Another thing I love to do is eat.

I will try anything you give me as I’m naturally curious.

 It doesn’t mean I will like it though.

I don’t necessarily know what is a good food for me to eat in terms of nutrition so I dependent on you to guide me in that.

I just usually eat what I like.

So do give me delicious food to eat.

Seeds and grains plus veggies and fruit is what I really like.

I am an omnivore and so will pretty much eat anything.

Apparently foods that are high in fat, sugar, calcium, phosphorus and salt are bad for me so I’m told.

9. I really need to drink water

Just as I need food I need water as well.

With all the exercise I do I need constant access to it so my thirst is quenched.

As you can imagine a life without water is not very nice so I do like to drink as much as I can and it helps keep me healthy as well.

You can give me water in 2 ways wither through a water bottle or a water bowl.

I don’t mind which way but a water bottle often helps to keep things neat and tidy plus it keeps the water fresh and uncontaminated.

10. I need a good space to live in

Finally I need a good amount of space to live in.

Get me the largest cage you can as I love to run around and need space to explore and make my own.

So if you are in doubt as to what type of cage to get me.

The answer is get the biggest you can.

Image wikipedia

can i bathe a hamster in water

Can I Bathe A Hamster In Water?

The way hamsters bathe and keep themselves clean is very different from the way humans do.

They have very different methods that contrast with those we use and have been adapted greatly over the centuries.

This is so they can survive in the territory that they live.

Hamsters are very sensitive to dirt and grime and they feel it immediately when it comes upon them.

It is quite a gift that they have, and one that us as humans don’t enjoy.

It means that they can keep themselves as clean as they can by any means that they can.

However, there are occasions when they for whatever reason, just cannot remove what is bothering them from their coat.

Despite persistent gnawing and licking their coat sometimes this just doesn’t do the job.

In these circumstances can I bathe a hamster in water?

Unfortunately, It is not a good thing to bathe a hamster.

This for a good reason.

Why it isn’t a good idea to bathe a hamster?

When they are bathed in water, hamsters can easily catch a cold because their fur is their body’s protection from the cold.

When that gets wet, the body has no protection and loses its main defense.

So when they get their fur wet, they immediately become exposed to the cold.

Drying them off quickly will help but drying off a hamster is not an easy thing to do.

They would much rather do this naturally than have you manhandling them with a towel.

What about if you really have to bathe them?

If ever you do need to bathe them then do this in as warm an environment as possible.

Doing this, you can help their bodies cope with the cold as much as possible.

The natural body temperature of a hamster is between 97-100 farenheit.

So if you can get the room temperature as close to that as possible then it will help them greatly.

Otherwise use as little water as possible.

What else can you do to help remove a stubborn stain from a hamster?

Get a little water in your fingers or by dabbing a cloth in water and rub the area and pinch the fur gently without hurting the hamster.

This will help to remove the stain concerned especially if it is a light stain.

Using shampoo on a hamster

If you need to use something more effective than water then some owners have used baby shampoo or animal shampoo to dab on the area concerned.

However use only a little as possible and try and avoid their eyes and head as that will definitely hurt them if they get it in their eyes.

There are various types of animal shampoo you can use and it might be worth consulting a vet to get their opinion on the best type to use.

But again using shampoo on a hamster is not the best thing for them to get the stain out.

If your hamster is a little wet get them as dry as possible using a towel and pat them down holding them close so that they don’t escape.

Keep holding them and dabbing them until the area is dry and then place extra bedding on the cage plus tissue for them.

Encouraging them to stay warm

When you have finished with them then put them back in their home.

Put some treats in their bed to encourage them to go down into it so that they can get warm in their nest.

Keep the temperature in the room as hot as possible as well.

Don’t use a hairdryer to dry them.

Even other methods such as using a hairdryer are really not good to use on hamsters.

They will not take kindly to having hot air blown at them forcefully.

Other methods of removing a stubborn stain

Consider cutting the affected part of hair away

If a little part of their fur is contaminated then it would be worth carefully cutting away that part of their fur which has been contaminated.

Do this gently though and it may need two of you, with one holding and the other doing the cutting to do this effectively

Using a sand bath.

Another method to use is a sand bath.

Sand baths are used by desert animals in the wild as a good way of removing dirt and grease in the absence of water in their natural habitat.

The way it works is that they roll about in the sand and the friction of the the sand against their body removes the stain concerned.

There is a way to do this at home though with your own hamster.

You can purchase chinchilla sand that you can use with your hamster to help them bathe.

It is also called bathing sand.

Take care just to purchase the sand though and not chinchilla dust which is too fine for hamsters to use.

Chinchilla dust can be bad for them and cause them to have respiratory problems if they breathe it in.

Make sure you have a ceramic dish to place the sand in.

You can purchase these from any good pets store and the are reasonable inexpensive.

The dish should be shallow enough for the hamster to get in and out of

How to set up a hamster sand bath

Take the ceramic dish and fill it with approximately 3 cm of Chinchilla bathing sand.

Then leave it in the hamster cage for them to use when they need to.

It is worth checking on it regularly throughout the day to see if it has been used and if so if it has been effective.

The sand will need changing regularly as they are likely to deficate in it.

So include it a part of your regular cleaning of the cage replacing the sand with new sand.

If you choose to you can leave the ceramic dish in the cage for them to play and roll about in as they will enjoy using it

In summary

So in summary, baths are not the best for hamsters and certainly shouldn’t be treated as a fun time for them.

Only wet their fur if you really need to.

However there are other methods you can use to remove a stubborn stain that doesn’t involve getting them wet.

Consider using chinchilla bath sand to help them get rid of stains that they can’t get rid of. It is quite an effective method and will save getting your hamster a chill.